In planning a wildflower meadow or garden, first you need to choose your site and estimate the square footage of the area. To find the square footage of
any square or rectangular area, simply multiply the length in feet times the width in feet. For example, a border 50 feet long and 10 feet wide is 500 sq. ft. in
area (50 X 10 = 500). For a circle, the area is equal to “pi” r squared, or pi (3.1) times the radius of your circle, squared. If your circle is 20 feet across, its
radius is half of that or 10 ft. So to get the square footage of the circle: 3.1 X 10 X 10 = 310 sq. ft. The amount of seed you should plant depends on the
flower display you want. Most usually want dense or maximum bloom. All mixtures are pure wildflower seed, no fillers or grasses. The denser you sow
your wildflower area with seed, the more you will hold out the weeds and grasses. Just be sure not to over seed, so your wildflowers do not compete with
themselves for space!
Our suggestion for coverage is as follows:
1 oz. covers approx. 100 - 250 sq ft
¼ lb covers approx. 250 - 500 sq ft
½ lb covers approx. 500 - 1000 sq ft
1 lb covers approx. 1000 - 2500 sq ft
5 lbs covers approx. 5000 - 10000 sq ft
10 lbs covers approx. 10000 - 15000 sq ft
SEEDING RATES ARE APPROX. DEPENDING ON THE DENSITY OF COVERAGE YOU DESIRE!
Note: If you have a large site, from ½ acre to several acres, your planting rate may be affected by land conditions. If you have heavy weeds on the site now,
some erosion, generally poor soil, or other land problems, additional seed is usually the most economical solution. If your site does have these types of
problems and you want to build in some assurance of full coverage, use a per pound coverage rate of 1000 sq ft. We usually suggest 50 lbs. per acre.
any square or rectangular area, simply multiply the length in feet times the width in feet. For example, a border 50 feet long and 10 feet wide is 500 sq. ft. in
area (50 X 10 = 500). For a circle, the area is equal to “pi” r squared, or pi (3.1) times the radius of your circle, squared. If your circle is 20 feet across, its
radius is half of that or 10 ft. So to get the square footage of the circle: 3.1 X 10 X 10 = 310 sq. ft. The amount of seed you should plant depends on the
flower display you want. Most usually want dense or maximum bloom. All mixtures are pure wildflower seed, no fillers or grasses. The denser you sow
your wildflower area with seed, the more you will hold out the weeds and grasses. Just be sure not to over seed, so your wildflowers do not compete with
themselves for space!
Our suggestion for coverage is as follows:
1 oz. covers approx. 100 - 250 sq ft
¼ lb covers approx. 250 - 500 sq ft
½ lb covers approx. 500 - 1000 sq ft
1 lb covers approx. 1000 - 2500 sq ft
5 lbs covers approx. 5000 - 10000 sq ft
10 lbs covers approx. 10000 - 15000 sq ft
SEEDING RATES ARE APPROX. DEPENDING ON THE DENSITY OF COVERAGE YOU DESIRE!
Note: If you have a large site, from ½ acre to several acres, your planting rate may be affected by land conditions. If you have heavy weeds on the site now,
some erosion, generally poor soil, or other land problems, additional seed is usually the most economical solution. If your site does have these types of
problems and you want to build in some assurance of full coverage, use a per pound coverage rate of 1000 sq ft. We usually suggest 50 lbs. per acre.
How Much Seed Do I Need?
Where to Plant: Unless you are planting our Partial Shade Mix or Woodland Species, choose a spot with as much sun as possible. We consider full sun
at least 6 hours daily. For wildflowers, full sun is best. Most all soils are acceptable -- if any plant has grown in the spot, it should support wildflowers,
which are tough and will adapt to the soil you provide for them. When to Plant: In spring when there is no further chance of a killing frost, meaning that your
night time temperatures are maintaining 45 degrees and above. If you miss spring, you can plant in summer unless the weather is very hot. Fall planting,
in areas with freezing weather, must be after a killing frost. A killing frost usually happens at 28 degrees Fahrenheit. Fall-planted seed sprouts and
blooms several weeks earlier than spring planted seed. A fall planting is a dormant planting - seed germinates in the spring. In areas of no frost, plant as
your rainy season begins. You can plant wildflowers in all three seasons. It is never too late to plant wildflowers! Ask us for details!
Soil Preparation: This is the most important step in obtaining success of your wildflower planting, whether it is a small garden or a large meadow.
Remove all existing growth, either by hand , roto-tilling, rough or power raking. Till only deep enough to remove all old roots. Deep tilling may bring up
dormant weed seeds lying beneath which will compete with your flowers. If you want to be sure your soil is “weed seed free”, you’ll have to till, wait for the
crop of new weeds to grow, usually one to three weeks and then do one of two things; kill them down with one of the safe, non-residual herbicides
such as “Round-up” or to till again as in step one. If you use the herbicide method, then once the weeds are dead, rake them out and seed your wildflowers
without roto-tilling again. If using the roto-till method, you can seed after the second or third tilling. About Fertilizer: When you choose to plant wild-
flowers there is usually minimal weeding done…and fertilizer will encourage the weeds and grasses. Fertilizer is not necessary for a great wildflower gar-
den or meadow. (No one fertilizes in the wild or along roadsides), but if you want this extra boost for your flowers, fertilize only where you are willing to
weed. Sowing: Once your soil is prepared and free of previous growth, it’s important to sow immediately. (If you let time go by between preparation and
spreading your seed, you’re giving possible weeds an advantage over your wildflower seed). You can use a hand crank seed sower, but most simply scat-
ter the seed by hand. If you want to be sure to get good, even coverage, divide your seed into two roughly equal parts, in two buckets or cans. Then add
clean sandbox sand to both halves, roughly 4-5 parts of sand to 1 part of seed. The sand does two things: It “dilutes” the seed, making it easier to sow
evenly, and since it’s light-colored, it shows you “where you’ve been” on the dark soil as you go. Next, sow one bucket’s mix over your whole area. Then
go back in the opposite direction and do the same with the second bucket. This way, you should have even spreading and no bare spots. Once seed is
sown, do not rake or cover it in any way. If you can, use a lawn roller or lay down a large board and walk on it to compress (squash down) the seed into the
bare soil. Remember, some of the seed you’re sowing is tiny; even the lightest covering of soil can stop it from germinating. Keep your new seedbed moist
until seedlings are about 6-8” tall. After that, they should be self- sufficient; however watering during droughts will keep your flowers blooming.
Know your Annuals, Perennials, Biennials: If you are planting one of our regional mixes, your seed is approximately 50% wild annuals, which will bloom
the first year, and 50% wild perennials, which won’t bloom until the second year. The annuals are quick-growing, quick-blooming and will
bloom for months, and then die with a killing frost. Most do reseed, but the seed must fall on bare ground to re-grow the next spring. Perennials are the
flowers that “come back every year” from the same roots, forming expanding clumps in your meadow over the years. Biennials bloom the second year,
and are killed by that year’s frost. However, they are heavy re-seeders, and usually reappear in the meadow. Maintenance: The amount of work you want to
put into your meadow area is up to you. The only requirement is a once-a-year mowing in the fall after killing frosts—to disperse seed and to
keep down brushy growth. Another good practice is to identify areas that have become weak or weed-filled, and to reseed those spots, the same way you
repair bare spots in a lawn. Once you are able to identify weeds, hand pulling is a viable method of control for the small to medium garden. Any weed that
you can pull will constitute to the success of your garden for years. One weed can disperse thousands of seeds, so get ‘em out of there if you can. If you
have a large planting and you notice an area of weeds, then the above method of re-tilling and re-seeding that area is your way to obtain maximum suc-
cess. Be Patient and Enjoy! Be patient while your garden or meadow establishes but once it has you’ll notice small wildlife, many birds, butterflies and
other insects that are attracted to your wild garden; observing these visitors is one of the greatest pleasures of growing wildflowers. Mow paths
through your meadow, put in benches and bird-feeders, and enjoy it all for years to come.
at least 6 hours daily. For wildflowers, full sun is best. Most all soils are acceptable -- if any plant has grown in the spot, it should support wildflowers,
which are tough and will adapt to the soil you provide for them. When to Plant: In spring when there is no further chance of a killing frost, meaning that your
night time temperatures are maintaining 45 degrees and above. If you miss spring, you can plant in summer unless the weather is very hot. Fall planting,
in areas with freezing weather, must be after a killing frost. A killing frost usually happens at 28 degrees Fahrenheit. Fall-planted seed sprouts and
blooms several weeks earlier than spring planted seed. A fall planting is a dormant planting - seed germinates in the spring. In areas of no frost, plant as
your rainy season begins. You can plant wildflowers in all three seasons. It is never too late to plant wildflowers! Ask us for details!
Soil Preparation: This is the most important step in obtaining success of your wildflower planting, whether it is a small garden or a large meadow.
Remove all existing growth, either by hand , roto-tilling, rough or power raking. Till only deep enough to remove all old roots. Deep tilling may bring up
dormant weed seeds lying beneath which will compete with your flowers. If you want to be sure your soil is “weed seed free”, you’ll have to till, wait for the
crop of new weeds to grow, usually one to three weeks and then do one of two things; kill them down with one of the safe, non-residual herbicides
such as “Round-up” or to till again as in step one. If you use the herbicide method, then once the weeds are dead, rake them out and seed your wildflowers
without roto-tilling again. If using the roto-till method, you can seed after the second or third tilling. About Fertilizer: When you choose to plant wild-
flowers there is usually minimal weeding done…and fertilizer will encourage the weeds and grasses. Fertilizer is not necessary for a great wildflower gar-
den or meadow. (No one fertilizes in the wild or along roadsides), but if you want this extra boost for your flowers, fertilize only where you are willing to
weed. Sowing: Once your soil is prepared and free of previous growth, it’s important to sow immediately. (If you let time go by between preparation and
spreading your seed, you’re giving possible weeds an advantage over your wildflower seed). You can use a hand crank seed sower, but most simply scat-
ter the seed by hand. If you want to be sure to get good, even coverage, divide your seed into two roughly equal parts, in two buckets or cans. Then add
clean sandbox sand to both halves, roughly 4-5 parts of sand to 1 part of seed. The sand does two things: It “dilutes” the seed, making it easier to sow
evenly, and since it’s light-colored, it shows you “where you’ve been” on the dark soil as you go. Next, sow one bucket’s mix over your whole area. Then
go back in the opposite direction and do the same with the second bucket. This way, you should have even spreading and no bare spots. Once seed is
sown, do not rake or cover it in any way. If you can, use a lawn roller or lay down a large board and walk on it to compress (squash down) the seed into the
bare soil. Remember, some of the seed you’re sowing is tiny; even the lightest covering of soil can stop it from germinating. Keep your new seedbed moist
until seedlings are about 6-8” tall. After that, they should be self- sufficient; however watering during droughts will keep your flowers blooming.
Know your Annuals, Perennials, Biennials: If you are planting one of our regional mixes, your seed is approximately 50% wild annuals, which will bloom
the first year, and 50% wild perennials, which won’t bloom until the second year. The annuals are quick-growing, quick-blooming and will
bloom for months, and then die with a killing frost. Most do reseed, but the seed must fall on bare ground to re-grow the next spring. Perennials are the
flowers that “come back every year” from the same roots, forming expanding clumps in your meadow over the years. Biennials bloom the second year,
and are killed by that year’s frost. However, they are heavy re-seeders, and usually reappear in the meadow. Maintenance: The amount of work you want to
put into your meadow area is up to you. The only requirement is a once-a-year mowing in the fall after killing frosts—to disperse seed and to
keep down brushy growth. Another good practice is to identify areas that have become weak or weed-filled, and to reseed those spots, the same way you
repair bare spots in a lawn. Once you are able to identify weeds, hand pulling is a viable method of control for the small to medium garden. Any weed that
you can pull will constitute to the success of your garden for years. One weed can disperse thousands of seeds, so get ‘em out of there if you can. If you
have a large planting and you notice an area of weeds, then the above method of re-tilling and re-seeding that area is your way to obtain maximum suc-
cess. Be Patient and Enjoy! Be patient while your garden or meadow establishes but once it has you’ll notice small wildlife, many birds, butterflies and
other insects that are attracted to your wild garden; observing these visitors is one of the greatest pleasures of growing wildflowers. Mow paths
through your meadow, put in benches and bird-feeders, and enjoy it all for years to come.
How to Plant Like a Pro!
Instructional DVD - 30 Min.
Everything you need to know about
creating and planting your wildflower
garden or meadow! Order Your
Copy Today! $9.95.
Everything you need to know about
creating and planting your wildflower
garden or meadow! Order Your
Copy Today! $9.95.
* How do I kill the Grass in my wildflower area? We suggest that you use Ornamec, which is an herbicide that will
kill only the grass but not broadleaf plants such as wildflowers and weeds.
* What can I plant for the honey bees, butterflies etc.? All wildflowers are beneficial but we recommend our
Northeast Deluxe Mix which has everything for everybody or our Hummingbid/Butterfly or Nature’s Choice Mix!
* Can I grow wildflowers in full shade? The technical answer is no, all wildflowers need some sort of light. There
is one wildflower that will do well in complete shade, Forget-me-not and you can also use our Woodland or Hand
Gathered and Rare species. Call or e-mail us for advice.
* Is the Queen Anne’s Lace you sell invasive? NO, absolutely not. We do not sell invasive species. The Queen
Anne’s Lace we sell is the annual, (Ammi majus) and not the invasive, Daucus Caroata.
* Can I use more than one mix in the same area? Yes, mix and match away! You can also mix mixes together or
add additional species - the creativity is endless!
* When Should I Plant? In Spring, Summer or Fall; see above for complete info!
* How do I store my seeds? Store seeds in a cool and dry place. If stored properly seeds are viable for years!
* What’s better - A Fall or Spring seeding? Some only believe in a Spring seeding while others only believe in a
Fall Seeding. At the Farm, we seed Spring, Summer and Fall in order to take advantage of the entire growing
season!
*Can I order now and have you ship later? Yes, we ship when you want to - just let us know when - we’re at your
service!
* Should I add anything to my soil? Technically, no - but some may need to add lime, fertilizer, gypsum or other
additives. (Contact us for details)
* How often should I water? Once germination happens, keep moist until seedlings are 6-8” tall - you may need to
water every other day unless Mother Nature is providing the rain.
* Can I transplant my wildflowers? Most wildflower do not like transplanting - so plant your seeds where you want
to see them grow!
kill only the grass but not broadleaf plants such as wildflowers and weeds.
* What can I plant for the honey bees, butterflies etc.? All wildflowers are beneficial but we recommend our
Northeast Deluxe Mix which has everything for everybody or our Hummingbid/Butterfly or Nature’s Choice Mix!
* Can I grow wildflowers in full shade? The technical answer is no, all wildflowers need some sort of light. There
is one wildflower that will do well in complete shade, Forget-me-not and you can also use our Woodland or Hand
Gathered and Rare species. Call or e-mail us for advice.
* Is the Queen Anne’s Lace you sell invasive? NO, absolutely not. We do not sell invasive species. The Queen
Anne’s Lace we sell is the annual, (Ammi majus) and not the invasive, Daucus Caroata.
* Can I use more than one mix in the same area? Yes, mix and match away! You can also mix mixes together or
add additional species - the creativity is endless!
* When Should I Plant? In Spring, Summer or Fall; see above for complete info!
* How do I store my seeds? Store seeds in a cool and dry place. If stored properly seeds are viable for years!
* What’s better - A Fall or Spring seeding? Some only believe in a Spring seeding while others only believe in a
Fall Seeding. At the Farm, we seed Spring, Summer and Fall in order to take advantage of the entire growing
season!
*Can I order now and have you ship later? Yes, we ship when you want to - just let us know when - we’re at your
service!
* Should I add anything to my soil? Technically, no - but some may need to add lime, fertilizer, gypsum or other
additives. (Contact us for details)
* How often should I water? Once germination happens, keep moist until seedlings are 6-8” tall - you may need to
water every other day unless Mother Nature is providing the rain.
* Can I transplant my wildflowers? Most wildflower do not like transplanting - so plant your seeds where you want
to see them grow!
| ORNAMEC GRASS CONTROL Covers 3000-5000 sq. Ft. $54.95 |
| Don’t see the answer to your question, ask our professionals and we’ll answer all your wildflower and other garden questions. |
| We are always adding new products and wildflower seed mixes and species so be sure to visit us often online: www.vermontwildflowerfarm.com |
| BUY ANY 3 5 X 7 SEED PACKETS AND GET 1 FREE |
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| 3 lbs. WILDFLOWER MIXING SAND For Mixing with up to 1lb Seed $4.00 |